After some good results from the Kumho V720 tires locally and at the Pro Solo Finale, I chose too run the Kumho at Nationals also. The V720 gives immediate response and super quick turn-in. Puts down power very well too.
Fastrack was released last week and the RSX Type-S will not be moved to STX and will remain in STF. Time to open up the checkbook and start thinking about spending money again.
California emissions check (SMOG) was required for registration renewal which meant that I had to replace the complete exhaust and intake to legally pass the visual test. Easier than it looks and I'm good for another two years. Yay.
First on the to do list is to lengthen the integral strut steering arms, as my OE spec Bilsteins are designed for a Civic and thus the steering arms are about 1/4" too short. Yawsport has their welder do his magic and cut and space the arms 8mm to meet the correct dimensions. While the struts were out I re-installed the 650# front springs and replaced some of the spring thrust washers. Front swaybar was removed and front ride height is lowered 1/4".
Second is to keep an eye on the rear upper control arms. These aftermarket arms allow for camber adjustment, but at reduced ride height the inner most part of the arm can come in contact with the body/subframe. If the threads are long enough, it looks like I can thread the center outward and pick up a little space. May need custom offset arms or a different brand? Modeling clay comes in handy for checking clearances such as this.
At the first local autox after Nats I play around with the rear swaybar and discover that it is only set about half-stiff. It is also bound up in the brackets and will not move by hand. I thought the bar was maxxed out for Lincoln but I may have adjusted it for wet weather conditions. Whoops. And the binding is due to poor lubrication and overly tight bushings. Placing small spacers between the brackets and subframe eases up the bushings and allows easier rotation with the help of proper grease.
While doing the strut mods listed above, I was driving the car for a week with stock front springs and I could really feel the softness of the rear suspension, as it should be with a motion ratio around .59. My co-driver helps me find some 18K (1008lbs) Tein springs. I am wanting at least 1200-1300lb, but these Teins are the correct 70mm ID and priced well at $40.
A broken wheel stud keeps me out of the car the the most recent local autox. Bummer. I have extended ARP studs but the front replacement requires hub removal and bearing replacement which is something I would need to have a shop fix. $$$ Maybe later. So I replaced it with a stock length stud.
Next up ? Keep competing locally and increase real roll stiffness. Saving weight and getting cold intake air to the engine are also on my radar. More front camber and travel too. Rear suspension bushings. All of this on the cheap, of course.
