K20 horsepower figures are commonly known and all over the internet. 200 wheel horsepower is widely accepted for a naturally aspirated K20a2 with I/H/E and a good tune and torque is generally below 150 but relatively flat from 3K to redline. My car dynoed at 194hp / 147tq with a big jump in power over the stock tune and a much safer AFR.
Spring rates are currently 10K front and 12K rear. The metric conversion is basically x56 so the fronts are 560 lbs/in and the rears are 672 lbs/in. Way softer rates than what the internet says you need to have to make an RSX work properly and softer than I would like for autox but it is a good choice for this daily driver. Rear motion ratio is .590 and the front is close to 1 so you can see the calculated wheel rates are actually softer in the rear. With minimal rear toe and normal rake the car has no problems turning but cannot be classified as eager or willing. Steady state push and slow transitions can be helped with more spring rate and higher rear bias, but that can hurt power application and be detrimental on bumpy surfaces. Higher spring rates are in my possession and more changes are planned.
In anticipation of rear spring changes, I modified the rear swaybar by crushing the tube further back and adding another adjustment hole. Not the most beautiful thing, but when combined with an alternate LCA endlink mount it will give much more adjustment opportunity and better articulation.
The new billet aluminum swaybar brackets are much stronger than the generic steel ones. Video shows the only deflection is from the thin urethane bushings, however if you observe closely it looks like the bottom half of the subframe is flexing. Maybe time to revisit the full width ASR subframe brace again. Modeling clay on the lower control arms tells me how much clearance to the swaybar arms.
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